permanent wave
ALTERNATIVE NAMES: Perm; Permanent; Hair waving; Cold waves
DATE INVENTED/BEGAN: 1906
PLACE INVENTED/BEGAN: London
DISCIPLINE: Technology
FIELD: Hairdressing
ASSESSMENT: Popular hairstyle achieved through a chemical reaction.
LANGUAGE: English
DETAILS/DESCRIPTION:
The permanent wave is a hairstyle that features a fixed curl achieved through a chemical process. The waving procedure was invented in London by a German hairdresser named Charles Nestle* in 1906.
Nessler applied borax to hair that had been wrapped around a curler and applied heat. After several hours, the borax stiffened, setting the hair to its curled shape. This early form of permanent waving lasted only a few days and required frequent re-applications. Nevertheless, the process appealed to women, as it proved far more convenient than the traditional nightly routine of curl papers and pins. Permanent waving became increasingly popular and profitable over the course of the 20th century.
Today, the permanent wave is produced by the application of an ammonium-based compound to the hair. This chemical solution, called a reducing agent, breaks down the chemical bonds of the hair’s protein strands, putting the hair in a malleable state. The hair is then molded into the desired shape with curlers. Finally, a neutralizing, or oxidizing, agent is applied, which restores the chemical bonds and fixes the hair in place.
The modern wave more closely approaches the permanence of its nomenclature, typically lasting for months rather than days.
ONELINER: The permanent wave
EXTRA-CONNECTIONS: The process involved the use of borax, discovered by Aaron Winters* in Death Valley
BIBLIOGRAPHY:
Berger, Dan. “Re: How were permanent waves for hair discovered?” Online posting. 16 April 1998. MadSci Network: Chemistry. Retrieved 27 January 2004 from http://www.madsci.org/posts/archives/may98/892764277.Ch.r.html
Burke, James. The Pinball Effect. Boston: Little, Brown & Co., 1996.
"Cosmetic." Encyclopædia Britannica. Retrieved 27 January 2004 from
http://www.britannica.com/eb/article?eu=26901
"Dress." Encyclopædia Britannica. Retrieved 27 January 2004 from
http://www.britannica.com/eb/article?eu=108949
Sassoon, Vidal. "Hairdressing."World Book Online Reference Center. Jan. 2004. World Book, Inc. Retrieved 16 January 2004 from http://0-www.worldbookonline.com.mill1.sjlibrary.org:80/ar?/na/ar/co/ar242440.htm.
AUDIO/VISUAL:
Photos of early permanent waving procedure:
http://www.hairrific.com/perm2.htm#perm1
Photos of 1950s-era permanent hairstyles:
http://www.fiftiesweb.com/fashion/fashion-wh.htm